This page steps you through the process of installing the XMOD Generation 1 Ion Pro 2S Pack. Be sure to charge the batteries before using them for the first time. This is a long process, but only requires moderate soldering skill. Take your time and be sure to perform the safety checks with your Mini Meter or equivalent MultiMeter.

• Solder
• Solder Wick
• Soldering Iron
• Side Cut Nippers
• Hobby Knife Set
• Needle File Set
• Screwdriver Set
• 5/32" Drill Bit
• Taper Reamer (or 1/4" Drill Bit)
• Variable Speed Drill
• XMOD Gen1 Lithium Pro Kit
• XMOD Gen1 Motor Wire Upgrade
• Mini Meter Pro (or equivlent)

First break the car down and remove the EP (Electronics Package) from the car. Go ahead and cut the battery holders off but leave a little bit of wire as shown. I also trim the wire keeper off the top of the front motor mount since it won't fit the larger wires of the Pro Kit.

Now we need to make room for the larger wires. Take the Side Cut Snippers and cut the EP housing as shown.

This is what the EP housing should look like when you are done with this part.

This step is optional, but I do it on all my cars. The purpose is to allow for easy tuning of the receiver. Most cars don't need any adjustment, but if your car does need it this makes it very easy to do.

I start the hole with a hobby knife as shown here. Be careful not to gouge the receiver adjustment pot underneath.

Then I make the hole a bit larger. Pull the receiver back so you don't hit the pot.

Then I use a reamer to enlarge the hole and make it perfectly round. This is strictly cosmetic, so if you don't have a reamer, don't sweat it.

This is what the cleaned up hole should look like.

Now you have a quick and easy way to adjust the receiver pot. You do have to scrape the wax out first.

Next we are going to prep the board for the Motor Wire Upgrade and the Pro Kit Harness. The Motor Wire Upgrade is optional, but highly recommended.

By the way, I have the board clamped into a Panavise to hold it securely while working.

Use your soldering iron and wick to remove the solder holding the factory motor wires in place. If you have not used solder wick before, its very easy, just lay it over the solder joint and heat it with the iron, the solder will wick into the braid pulling it out of the solder joint.

Remove the factory power wires. Don't worry about doing a perfect job since we are going to drill it anyway.

Now that the wires are gone we need to scrape the green cladding off of the board in the two bottom locations with a hobby knife. This gives us a larger surface to solder to. This photo shows the power positive being scraped.

Here we are scraping the motor positive.

Next move to the top of the board and scrape the motor negative. This is a very important step. If you don't have a good connection here your steering will work, but your motor will not run since the FETs draw from the topside connection.

Drill all 4 locations and then clean up the holes with a hobby knife so they are clean like the holes on the left side of this shot. The drill bit I use is a 1/16 or .062 diameter.

If you are using the No Drill Pro Kit, you may skip this step.

Do this wire first so you can get to both sides easily. Leave enough of the wire exposed on the top so you can touch the bare wire with solder. Then apply the heat to the wire where it sticks out of the bottom of the board and apply the solder to the joint on the top side. After the top is good I check the bottom and add more solder if required. I use Radio Shack Standard Rosin Core Solder .062 diameter #64-008 for this project.

This is what the negative power wire should look like on the top side.

Here is a better shot of the negative power wire solder joint. The negative power wire is the only wire that needs to be soldered on both sides, the other 3 are bottom only.

This is what the bottom should look like. Your joints should be shiny like this. If not you have what is called a cold solder joint.

This is a board that has a solder bridge across the capacitor on the power input side. If you follow the circuit you will see that this creates a direct short on the power input wires. If you connect cells up to a board like this they will fry.

Insert the motor wires as shown.

Solder them again make sure the joint is shiny.

The motor wires are a bit longer so you will usually need to cut them off with the side cutters.

I did not show it above, but sometimes the power harness needs the same treatment.

Here is the trimmed solder connections for the motor wires.

Now we need to check for a shorted Board Harness. Using your Mini Meter Pro or equivalent MultiMeter, set the range to measure Ohms as shown. Then connect to the Pro Plug to the Board Harness. You don't have to worry about the polarity because we are only measuring resistance. A typical reading is pictured, although you may see a slight variation.

This is what you do not want to see. For illustration purposes I have shorted the Board Harness with a screwdriver and the resulting "0.00" shows we have a dead short.

Now we will check the Motor Wires for shorts. This is a good reading. As long as we do not see "0.00" we are in good shape.

A lot of EPs get fried as a result of sloppy soldering, so don't skip these past few steps.

If you are not comfortable with the process up to this point you can buy a Pro Ready Electronics Package from us.

Now its time to drill the mounting holes. Use the 5/32 drill bit and go all the way through.

Same thing here.

We now have four 5/32" holes in the chassis.

Next ream them out to 1/4" in size. If you don't have a reamer, you can work your way up to a 1/4" drill bit. If you try to drill it from the start with a 1/4" the chassis will crack so take your time and start with a smaller hole as shown.

Next clean up the hole edges with a hobby knife.

Nest we trim the factory battery holder alignment tabs as shown with the Side Cut Snippers.

Now cut here.

Here are the alignment tabs removed.

Next file the edge with a hobby file.

It will clean up nicely if you use a little finesse.

Now that the battery mounting holes are in place its time to mount the batteries.

If you want to save some time and effort, you can buy an XMOD Gen1 Pre Drilled Stock Chassis from us.

Bend the end of the Ty-Wraps as shown.

Here you can see why the holes need to be at least 1/4", otherwise the Ty-Wraps will not be above the board and will cause the chassis to splay out more than necessary.

Insert all 4 of the Ty-Wraps as shown.

Secure them as snugly as you can by hand and trim the as shown.

Make sure the Ty-Wrap heads are on the top as shown.

Also, be sure the wires are on the correct side as shown here. The wires should make a smooth bend and plug in easily but not have a lot of slack to get in the way.

The last step is to solder the motor wires on as shown. Check operation of everything before putting the car back together. Be sure to keep the antenna wire away from power.

I don't have it done in these photos, but its a good idea to tape the antenna connector tab to make sure that you don't hit power and fry the receiver while testing.

Re-Assemble the car, and give it a test run. Your car should be twice as fast as before. If not make sure you put everything back together properly and that you have no binding. If you spin a wheel and it doesn't keep going for 2-3 more turns you have binding.