The maximum safe voltage for the motors we have tested is 8.4v or 2 Lithium cells. Any more than that and they will run too hot and fry.

No, we do not build our motors in house. We sell a lot of motors and there is no way we could keep up if we tried to do it ourselves. There are only a handful of companies making substantial numbers of the specialty motors and motor parts we use in our hobby and most of them come from China. We buy them from 3 different companies 2 of which are based in China and a third firm who is US based and imports them from China. Some of our motor designs are exclusive to AtomicMods and some are sold under other labels. In fact, we outsource the production of almost everything we sell with a only few exceptions so we can concentrate on R&D and serving our customers.

Yes, heat is the enemy and will kill your motor, so please do use one. This is especially important as we run higher current motors since more current means more heat. Billet Aluminum heat sinks are light and aluminum is very efficient at heat transfer.

First thing you need to understand is that there is no magic to motors. It’s a matter of using good components and selecting a wind based on your output goals. To increase performance, you must draw more current, and with current comes heat.

For example, lets look at the Blaster HC (an un released prototype. This motor pulls 2.6 amps at 8.4 volts which is 21.84 watts of power being consumed. If we assume it is 60% efficient which is very generous, that means that means that 8.736 watts is being burned off in the form of heat. That may not sound like a lot, but it really is when it goes straight to heat. As we increase the current draw, this heat will continue to rise as current draw does. Usually the commutator lets go of the contact plates from the centrifugal force combined with the softening of the bed that holds them as a result of the heat. When these let loose it destroys the brushes as well and makes a big mess, ruining the motor. Usually all that can be salvaged is the case, bearings and magnets.

So when you see someone advertising a 60,000 RPM motor, realize that unless you have a way to get rid of the tremendous heat, it won't last long. Other factors will contribute to the heat such as a car that isn't smooth running, or binds (it is very important to de-bind you car) or a car with a V2 since they deliver more current and with that extra current comes more heat.

Place the motor on the table with the magnet stop ridges on the bottom like shown and slide them in like this with the black mark on the right. If your motor runs backwards, you will know you got them backwards. You could reverse the wires to make it run the correct direction, but this affect your motors timing.

No, the 180 motors use a different magnet size and the cases are also very difficult to open without damaging the motor.

You need a Pinion Puller.

We press them on with a bench vise. Make sure you keep it straight or you can bend the shaft and ruin the motor. Take a look at the XMODS Generation 1 Pinion Gear Installation Tutorial for an example.

Here is a great article on how motors work.

Yes, here is a good article titled C-Can Drag Racing Armatures: The Basics. It refers to a different motor size, but the theory is the same.

The purpose of the original capacitors is to shunt the noise produced from the brushes arcing back to ground, so it will reduce interference with the radio receiver.

Here is a very nice explanation of capacitors and how they work.

Capacitors do store energy, so the theory is sound. However, I tested a "Nitro Charger" that I found on the internet and I could not see any difference at all. I doubt you could reap substantial benefit from a capacitor small enough to fit in an XMODS.

No it is not required, but it helps handle the extra current so it is recommended.

I don't like the extra bulk and for this to be of any advantage, you would have to solder harnesses with Pro Plugs onto all of your motors. If you race in different classes and have to change motors a lot, it may be worth it. I rarely change motors myself, so I use straight wires.

They increase motor torque by increasing the strength of the opposing magnetic field that the armature turns against when energized. This increases low end power (which wins races) but can cause a tradeoff in overall RPMs in some motors. However a taller pinion can make up the difference and then some.

This refers to the process of running a motor under water to wear the brushes to the commutator, therefore increasing electrical efficiency of the motor an increasing torque. This increases torque at the cost of RPM as you increase brush contact which means more friction on the commutator.